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Feature Article

Written on 9th April 2024

FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO CULINARY STARDOM: CHEF HEIN HTET SHEIN'S UNLIKELY PATH

Chef Hein Htet Shein’s picture during the photoshoot for The Star. Source Chef Hein Htet Shein

As Malaysia is becoming one of the country with a high total number of foreign nationals, local researches has started to study on press coverage of the media reports on the influx of foreign workers in Malaysia. Most of the researches agreed that the Malaysian newspapers socially constructed foreign nationals as both offenders and victims in the local crime news. 

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These type of coverage shapes the minds of our citizens to always suspect and to look down on foreign workers in general, and due to this factor many inspiring stories of foreigners that came to find an opportunity to live in Malaysia goes unnoticed and overshadowed by the media. Among these luminaries’ shines, Chef Hein Htet Shein, a man whose journey embodies resilience, compassion and the relentless pursuit of excellence. 

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Born into humble beginnings in rural Yangon, Myanmar, Chef Htet is the only son and was raised by his mother. After dropping out of Dagon University in his 2nd year as he was disinterested in pursuing in the field of economics, Chef Htet decided to move to Malaysia at the age of just 20 years old. 

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“I knew I cannot build a future for myself nor my mother if I stayed back in my country because Mynamar’s government was in no condition to provide for my needs at that time,” Chef Htet reflects, elaborating on his decision to move to Malaysia. It was July, 2007 when Chef Htet along with his agent, Mr Lim and 14 other foreigners landed in Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) seeking for a fresh start.

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One of Chef Hein Htet Shein’s signature dish, LaGula biiig brekkie-homemade sourdough brown, breakfast dill beans, mushrooms, toasted spinach, ricotta and scrambled tofu. (Picture by Sharvena a/p Kanapathy)

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One of Chef Hein Htet Shein’s signature dish, Valmon and cream cheez croissant with dill. (Picture by Sharvena a/p Kanapathy)

Mr Lim secured a job for Chef Htet in a nasi briyani restaurant at Taman Sri Andalas, Klang as a dishwasher. Chef Htet always was in a discomfort atmosphere within himself because of the language barrier and the difficulty of being far away from home and his mother.

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“Every time I feel sad, my mother’s advice would always echo in my mind, which is everything is in my hand and everything depends on me,” said Chef Htet. That is when he realized that he had to work as twice as hard to become someone in Malaysia and he took the initiative to learn the Malay language by studying it every night before sleeping then the next day he would practice it with his colleagues. 

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Chef Htet’s first salary was just RM 750.00 and the first thing he bought was a DiGi simcard to call his mother in Myanmar. After 4 years, Chef Htet quit and got another job at New Seng Kee (NSK) which was to cook for the staffs. 

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“I applied all the cooking techniques and recipes that I observed from my previous job here in NSK,” said Chef Htet. The first ever dish he prepared was Keow Teow Penang which also happens to be his favorite to eat dish in Malaysia. 

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After 2 years of working at NSK, Chef Htet decided to take things up a notch which was to open his own Thai food stall. It was located at Klang road, for few months his life revolved around just cooking and going back home alone. 

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Business and things personally went downhill when Chef Htet started his addiction with gambling. Winning or losing, it became his greatest enemy and finally after months the realization hit that he was wasting his life away, along with the pressure to pay his debts from all the gambling he had to stop it. To get back on track, he gave up on the stall and took up a job in Cafe Antipodeon, Bangsar in the kitchen crew. 

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“I wanted a change, I wanted to be more than just cleaning tables, cutting vegetables, mopping the floor, taking orders”, said Chef Htet. He observed every duty that a head chef does, the respect a head chef receives. From then on, Chef Htet never stopped working, it was all about working and learning everything about cooking every day. 

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Chef Htet created a strong bond with the head chef which also made him to create a good impression in front of their manager. As the head chef quit, Chef Htet was promoted to be the new head chef at the age of 28.  “It was a strict restaurant, I did not have the freedom nor the chance to experiment something new, I was quite unhappy working in that sort of situation,” said Chef Htet.

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It was the year 2019, when the Coronavirus wave hit Malaysia and people started losing jobs unexpectedly, it was the same for Chef Htet. Few weeks of being unemployed, Chef Htet was recommend as head chef by the manager of Café Antipodean, Miss Sherly, for a new café called The Hungry Tapir in Petaling Street. 

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His journey took a pivotal turn when he got the job as head chef after the interview immediately. The Hungry Tapir is a vegan based restaurant, it was a lot to learn but Google stood by him as his loyal teacher. Here, Chef Htet was allowed to try and experiment new dishes as the café requires a new menu from time to time. 

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In the year 2021, another branch from the same café was launched named “LaGula” which was mostly for vegan bakery and pastry. Chef Htet was also appointed as the head chef and had to create a new menu for LaGula too. With his indomitable spirit and boundless creativity, Chef Htet continues to weave his magic, one dish at a time, leaving an inedible mark on the vegan’s culinary legacy.

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Chef Hein Htet Shein and his colleagues at The Hungry Tapir. (Picture by Sharvena a/p Kanapathy)

According to the owners of The Hungry Tapir and LaGula, Makissa Smeeton and her mother, Cynthia Rodrigo, having Chef Hein Htet Shein has been a huge blessing and his leadership skills is unbeatable when it comes to dealing with the whole crew. “I worked with Chef Hein Htet Shein to come up with the menu from time to time. Nobody in the kitchen is vegetarian, but everyone is brimming with ideas and Chef Htet is so ingenious in bringing these concepts to life,” says Makissa, 

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Chef Htet does not look at his job beyond cooking, it is a business for him, he always makes an effort to lessen The Hungry Tapir’s and LaGula’s wholesale cost by trying to make homemade recipes with alternative ingredients which are much cheaper. According to the accountant of The Hungry Tapir and LaGula, Janagi Vijaya Kumar, there have been many significant changes in the cost of purchases compared to their previous head chef.  

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There are many dishes of Chef Htet that became a talk around town along with great reviews on the internet, such as, LaGula big brekkie, Valmon, Florals for Spring, See-Food platter and Mr Rodrigo’s Deli. 

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“The responsibility is heavier than ever, but I love cooking, it gives me joy when I see the plate returns empty after it is served,” said Chef Htet. Chef Htet has never stopped learning since day one and always withholds the determination to move forward. “I never went back to Myanmar since the day I came, it has been 17 years now, I gave my mother my word saying that I would be someone when I come back, until then Malaysia is my home,” said Chef Htet.

 

Text: Sharvena Kanapathy/ Photo: Sharvena Kanapathy

Created on 9th April 2024 

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C10, Balai Media, School of Communication, 10, Lengkok Sastera, 11800 Gelugor, Pulau Pinang

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